Spiced Short Ribs
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Spiced Short Ribs
After visiting a highly regarded Thai joint last week — and eating the best ribs I’ve ever had — I was beyond excited to learn that we were tackling short ribs for this week's SWAT. The aforementioned dish — bean-paste-marinated pork ribs with sesame seeds and cilantro — inspired me to use Asian flavors for this recipe. With cilantro, onion, ginger, cinnamon, and curry — there is no shortage of flavor here.
Click here to see Heavenly Short Rib Recipes.
- 1 Tablespoon yellow curry paste
- 1 Tablespoon ground ginger
- 1 Tablespoon ground cinnamon
- 1 Tablespoon olive oil
- 3/4 Pounds boneless short rib steak
- 1/2 Cup diced onions
- 1/4 Cup chopped cilantro
- Salt and pepper, to taste
Indian-Spiced Short Ribs
Preheat the oven to 325°. In a small skillet, toast the coriander and cumin seeds over moderately high heat, shaking the pan constantly, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer the seeds to a spice grinder and let cool. Add the peppercorns, ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, crushed red pepper and bay leaves and pulse the garam masala to a powder.
In a large enameled cast-iron casserole, heat the oil. Season the short ribs with salt and sear them over high heat until browned and crusty all over, about 15 minutes. Transfer the meat to a plate.
Add the onion, carrots and celery to the casserole and cook over moderate heat until lightly browned, about 7 minutes. Add the tomatoes, garlic and 3 tablespoons of the garam masala (there will be extra) and cook until fragrant and the tomatoes are beginning to break down, about 3 minutes. Add the wine and boil until reduced by half, scraping up any browned bits stuck to the casserole, about 5 minutes. Add the stock and bring to a simmer. Return the meat to the casserole and season with salt. Cover and braise in the oven for about 2 hours, until just tender but not falling apart.
Transfer the meat to a baking sheet. Strain the liquid into a saucepan. Skim off and discard the fat that rises to the surface. Boil over high heat until the sauce is reduced to 1 cup, about 15 minutes.
Preheat the broiler and position a rack 8 inches from the heat. Brush the meat with some of the sauce and broil for 3 minutes per side, until browned and sizzling. Sprinkle the meat lightly with garam masala, then slice it 1/2 inch thick. Transfer to plates and serve with the remaining sauce.
How to Make It
Preheat oven to 300°. Season ribs with salt and pepper and dust lightly with flour. Heat oil in a 10- to 12-in. heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Knock excess flour off ribs and brown in oil on all sides, working in batches to give them enough room to brown.
Transfer ribs to a roasting pan large enough to hold them in a single layer (about 12 in. by 17 in.). Add onions and carrots to pot on stove and cook over medium heat, stirring often, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Pour off excess fat if any, then stir in wine and sherry, scraping up browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Raise heat to high and boil liquid until reduced by three-quarters and slightly syrupy, 10 to 15 minutes. Add herbs, tomato paste, soy sauce, spices, and beef stock bring to a boil.
Pour liquid over ribs. Cover pan tightly with a double layer of foil and braise ribs in oven until meat is fork-tender and almost falling off the bone, 2 1/2 to 3 hours (2 to 2 1/2 hours if using ordinary short ribs). Let ribs cool in braising liquid, then refrigerate, covered, overnight.
The next day, remove solidified fat from top of ribs. Set pan on stovetop across two burners and heat over medium heat, uncovered, until gelatinized braising liquid has melted. Transfer ribs to a large bowl or pot and cover to keep moist. Strain liquid into a large bowl and throw away solids. Pour liquid back into pan and boil over medium-high heat, occasionally scraping up browned bits, until reduced to a thick but still pourable glaze, 20 to 30 minutes.
About 20 minutes before serving, set ribs carefully on top of sauce (to keep bones from falling out), turn heat to low, and cook, spooning sauce gently over ribs, until ribs are well glazed and heated through. Arrange each rib on a spoonful of Horseradish Potato Purée in a wide shallow bowl and drizzle some sauce on top. Serve with Braised Lacinato Kale and Glazed Pearl Onions and Baby Carrots if you like.
How to Make Tender Montreal-style Short Ribs
When most of us tackle short ribs, we either braise them until they’re unctuous blocks of meat and molten fat or slice them thin and quickly grill in the style of Korean kalbi. This winter, try a third way from Philadelphia, where Yehuda Sichel, chef-partner at the haute delicatessen Abe Fisher, cures slabs of bone-in ribs in pastrami spices, smokes and slow roasts them, then slices the meat into spice-crusted pink ribbons of unbeatable tenderness.
The Best Way to Make Barbecue Country-Style Ribs
“It’s like brisket on steroids,” says Sichel, who started doing this dish at home for Rosh Hashanah before adapting it for the restaurant, where it’s served family style with mustards, pickles, and homemade rye bread.
Whether you’re burrowing in at a snowy cabin or blowing minds at a dinner party, the key is to plan in advance: The rib cures for a week, smokes for an hour—you can skip this step if your smoker is snowbound—and roasts for six. Fortunately, almost all of it is passive cooking time—this beast pretty much flavors and cooks itself.
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Recipe from the Tasting Table Test Kitchen
Yield: 12 appetizer-size servings
Cook Time: 3 hours, 5 minutes (plus overnight marinating)
1 teaspoon dried fennel seeds
1 teaspoon dried lavender
1 teaspoon dried marjoram
1 teaspoon dried rosemary
1½ teaspoons kosher salt plus extra for seasoning fried shallot
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ cup plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2 large shallots, halved and thinly sliced, divided
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 cups medium-bodied red wine (such as Côtes du Rhône)
2 cups beef broth or stock
1 tablespoon finely chopped orange zest plus ¼ cup fresh-squeezed orange juice
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon good quality balsamic vinegar
1. In a large bowl, combine the fennel seeds, lavender, marjoram, rosemary, thyme, salt and pepper. Add the short ribs and coat with the spices. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
2. Remove the short ribs from the refrigerator. In a Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot set over medium-high heat, add 2 tablespoons of oil and heat until smoking, 1½ to 2 minutes. Add the short ribs and brown on all sides, about 10 minutes. Use tongs to transfer the ribs to a large plate. Add 1 tablespoon of oil and half of the shallots to the pan and cook, stirring, until soft, about 2 minutes. Stir in the garlic and once fragrant, after about 30 seconds, add the wine and beef broth. Bring to a simmer, return the short ribs to the pot, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover and cook until the short ribs are incredibly tender and easily pull away from the bone, 2 to 2½ hours. Turn off the heat and remove the short ribs from the pan. Once they're cool enough to handle, shred the meat using your fingers (discard the bones).
3. In a small saucepan set over medium-high heat, add ¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the remaining sliced shallots and cook until browned and crisp, 1½ to 2 minutes. Add the orange zest and fry for 15 seconds and immediately use a slotted spoon to transfer the shallots and zest to a paper towel-lined plate. Sprinkle with salt.
4. In a small bowl, mix together the butter and flour until a smooth paste forms. Use a spoon to skim off as much fat as possible from the braising liquid in the pot (pour the braising liquid into a medium bowl and place in the freezer to expedite the fat removal). To the sauce, add the orange juice and balsamic vinegar and set over medium-high heat. Once the sauce comes to a simmer, cook, stirring occasionally, until it is thick and reduced to about 1½ cups, 10 to 15 minutes. Whisk in the butter-flour mixture and simmer until the sauce thickens, about 2 minutes. Turn off the heat. Add the shredded short ribs and toss to combine.
5. Place a few tablespoons of the short ribs on 12 large spoons (Asian-style soup spoons work nicely). Top with the fried shallot mixture and serve, replenishing the spoons with more short ribs and fried shallot.
How to Make It
Preheat oven to 300°. Rinse and dry short ribs. Sprinkle all over with 1/2 tbsp. each salt and pepper. Add 1 tbsp. oil and the butter to a large, deep ovenproof pot over medium-high heat. Working in batches, brown short ribs all over, about 5 minutes per batch, transferring to a bowl as done.
Add chopped onion, carrot, celery, garlic, and ginger to pot and cook, stirring often, until vegetables are beginning to brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Add cumin and coriander and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Sprinkle with flour and cook, stirring often, until golden brown. Pour wine and 2 cups broth into pot and add peppercorns and cinnamon stick stirring constantly, bring to a boil. Return short ribs and any accumulated juices to pot. Liquid should just cover them add a little more broth if necessary. Cover and bake until meat is very tender when pierced, 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 hours.
Meanwhile, spread baby carrots and cipollini onions in a 9- by 13-in. baking pan. Drizzle with remaining 1 tbsp. oil and mix to coat cover with foil. Set in oven after ribs have baked about 1 1/2 hours, and bake 45 minutes. Remove foil and roast until vegetables are tender when pierced and beginning to brown, about 15 minutes longer. If necessary, broil 4 to 6 in. from heat to brown a little more, about 5 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Lift ribs from cooking liquid, cover, and keep warm. Strain liquid into a wide pan, skim off fat, and boil until sauce is reduced to about 2 cups and coats the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes.
Arrange ribs in wide, shallow bowls. Spoon carrots and cipollini onions around them and drizzle with a little sauce. Serve remaining sauce on the side.
*Short ribs cut lengthwise are often called English-style. If they're too long, ask your butcher to cut them in half.
Hello and welcome back to Home Movies Tuesday AGAIN! There was a glitch in the first one, so if you’re receiving this twice, please disregard the first one! My lack of computer skills and I thank you for your patience.
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Short ribs, great for Passover, wonderful for Easter, perfect for literally any day of the week where you feel like tending lovingly to a large pot of meat. These short ribs are not the classic soupy, red wine-y, soft and braised number, more of a spiced (cumin, fennel, coriander), tangy (vinegar, lemon), and even *crispy* (yes, crispy!) version.
If the idea of cooking large hunks of meat terrifies you, please know you are not alone. But also know that short ribs are nearly impossible to overcook and are extremely forgiving. Regardless of how you treat them, they will likely turn out pretty great, because that’s just the kind of meat short ribs are. Short ribs, in many ways, are the Aidan Shaw of meats. Dependable. Classic. Super hot. Would probably fix your sink if you asked them to.
The nice thing here is that while this is, essentially, a pot of “meat and potatoes,” it still feels kind of fresh to me (both literally and figuratively). Literally because of the vinegar and finely chopped lemon (preserved lemon would be a good substitute if you’re looking for ways to use that jar up), figuratively because I’m not asking you to do the classic “make a mirepoix” then add an entire bottle of dry red wine.
Just know before going in that they DO braise for a small eternity. They braise until you think they can’t braise anymore and then you braise them a little longer until they all but fall apart when you so much as look in their direction (if for some reason, you think your short ribs are too tough and somehow *overcooked*, I would wager to guess they are actually *undercooked* and would like you to keep braising).
Click HERE for a printable/saveable version.
SPICED, BRAISED SHORT RIBS with creamy potatoes
The last step before serving, wherein the perfectly tender and adequately cooked short ribs are uncovered to crisp up the ribs and potatoes and further thicken and reduce the sauce increases cooking time by about 30-ish minutes, which is the best 30-ish minutes you’ll ever spend, I promise. These are a lot, flavor and texture-wise, and but because they are a one-pot meat and potatoes kind of dish, they don’t need much more than a good tangy salad and a light, maybe chilled, red wine.
5 lbs. bone-in short ribs, at least 1.5” thick
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons canola or vegetable oil
1 ½ pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (other small, waxy potatoes are fine too), quartered lengthwise
1 large yellow onion, sliced or quartered if small
6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
4 whole chili de arbol (or 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper), plus more for serving
2 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons fennel seed
1 tablespoon coriander seed
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons tomato paste
½ cup white wine vinegar
3 cups beef or chicken broth (or bouillon dissolved in 3 cups of water, or just 3 cups of water)
2 lemons, seeds removed, thinly sliced, divided
3 cups cilantro, tender leaves and stems, coarsely chopped, divided
1. Season short ribs with salt and lots of pepper. If you can do this the day before, even better.
2. Preheat oven to 325°. Heat canola oil in a large (at least 8 qt) dutch oven over medium heat. Sear short ribs until deeply golden brown all on all sides, about 5 minutes per side. Using tongs, transfer short ribs to a large serving platter or rimmed baking sheet.
3. Carefully (the pot is hot!) drain fat from the pot, leaving behind any of the good bits.
4. Add potatoes, cut side down, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, without disturbing, until they’re nicely browned on one side, about 5 minutes. Give them a stir and continue to cook until browned a little more evenly.
5. Using a slotted spoon, transfer potatoes to the tray with the meat, leaving any bits and fat behind.
6. Add onions and garlic to the pot and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally until the onions have a nice golden brown color to them, 5–8 minutes. Add chili de Arbol, cumin, fennel, coriander, and cinnamon, stirring to coat and toast the spices.
7. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until it’s started to caramelize on the bottom of the pot (adjust the heat as needed to make sure it doesn’t burn before it caramelizes), about 2 minutes.
8. Add broth and vinegar, and bring to a simmer, scraping up all the bits on the bottom of the pot.
9. Return short ribs and potatoes to the pot, nestling everything in (if it doesn’t all seem to fit, it will but if not everything is submerged, just make sure the short ribs get priority seating on the braise train, which is to say make sure they are submerged even if the potatoes are not) and scatter with half the lemon.
10. Cover and place pot in the oven until short ribs are falling off the bone tender and potatoes are impossibly creamy to the point of almost mush (but not yet mush), 2 ½ –3 hours.
11. Increase oven temperature to 425° and remove the lid. Continue to cook until short ribs and any potatoes on top are browned and starting to crisp and the liquid has reduced to a very nice, rich sauce, 25–35 minutes.
12. Remove from heat and scatter with remaining lemon and cilantro, plus a bit of crumbled chili before serving.
DO AHEAD: Short ribs can be braised 2 days ahead, kept in the pot they were made in, sealed, and refrigerated. If doing this, you an remove the layer of fat with a spoon before rewarming them, covered either gently on the stovetop over medium heat or in a 400° oven until warmed through and saucy.
Sticky-Sweet Five-Spice Pork Ribs
Lacquered with a tangy, garlicky hoisin glaze that's spiked with fragrant Chinese five-spice, these ribs are impressive without being burdensome: There's no grilling or marinating—just two hours in the oven followed by a quick broil. Make them for your end-of-summer barbecue, but be sure to provide plenty of napkins (and maybe a plate of crunchy, bright vegetables for some refreshment). St. Louis-style pork ribs are flatter and fattier (not to the mention less expensive) than baby back ribs, which means that they'll brown more easily. The weight of a rack of can vary greatly, so you'll need to adjust the salt accordingly: As a general rule of thumb, use 1 tsp. salt for 1 lb. meat (our recipe calls for 2 Tbsp.—a.k.a. 6 tsp. salt—because it's based on two 3 lb. racks).
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For the suya spice:
Combine all ingredients and set aside.
For the short rib braise:
Preheat grill to medium-high heat and oil grill grates. Preheat oven to 300°F.
Season the short ribs with the suya spice blend and salt aggressively. Char on the grill on all sides.
Place short ribs in a roasting pan with tomatoes, ginger, onions and garlic, and cover with chicken stock. Cover with plastic wrap and foil and place in the oven for 3 hours. Remove from oven and allow to slightly cool.
Remove short ribs from braising liquid and place in a parchment lined roasting pan. Place another roating pan on top and weigh down with something heavy. Allow to press and cool overnight in the refrigerator.
For the shito honey:
Sauté the onions, garlic and pepper in palm oil. Add shrimp powder and honey. Cook for another 5 minutes and season with salt. Reserve.
To assemble and serve:
Preheat grill to medium-high heat and oil grill grates.
Remove the short ribs from their press and portion into large cubes. Season with suya powder and salt.
To be honest, I haven't been left with too many untapped desires for specific foods during the pandemic and I've taken up challenges to learn how to make some of my favorite things I used to only order out. One notable exception to this are cheesesteaks. A cheesesteaks is only as good as its minimal ingredients, and each one needs to be right to really hit that prime satisfaction point where meat, cheese, onions, and roll meld into a truly mouthwatering and lip licking combo. I've yet to find an exceptional cheesesteak here in the Triangle region of North Carolina until recently when a favorite local sandwich shop called Eastcut added a semi-traditional cheesesteak that tasted pretty spot on. Instead of quenching a thirst, it only light a fire in me to have more cheesesteaks and I decided to finally make one at home, but knowing it was never going to be the cheesesteak of my dreams, I tossed out almost all norms and crafted something really different in these shawarama-spiced cheesesteaks.
When thinking about making cheesesteaks at home, the beef always gave me pause, thinking it would be a chore to make the thinly sliced ribeye required. I don't know why I didn't consider just buying the already thinly sliced meat at the Asian grocery before now, but it's certainly a great spot to pick up beef prepped in the proper manner. This is actually short ribs and not ribeye, but it has a similar distribution of intra- and intermuscular fat like a ribeye, making it a great second choice for cheesesteaks.
I've spent years trying to find a shawarma seasoning that tastes right and finally achieved that a few years back with a recipe for chicken shawarma. I used that same base marinade here on the beef, which I tossed in the heavily seasoned, oil-based sauce until the meat was well coated. I then covered the bowl and placed it in the fridge to marinate for a couple hours.
I'm going to make an admission that will probably lose me favor with cheesesteak purists, but I like mayo on mine. For the best of the best cheesesteaks, there's absolutely no need for mayonnaise and I do not add it, but I feel like mayo can elevate a just "meh" cheesesteak to something more rich and juicy, so when in doubt, I opt for it. In this scenario, I thought mayo also offered the opportunity to introduce more complimentary flavors by mixing it with nutty tahini, garlic, and a splash of lemon juice, providing some classic shawarma tastes that otherwise would have been missing.
The onions were a little bit of a head scratcher when developing the recipe. My first inclination was to grill onion slices and then chop them up so they would be somewhat akin to a regular cheesesteak, but then I remember how the tartness of pickled red onions added a nice contrast that cut through the fat in a previous brisket cheesesteak I made. So I walked along those lines and came up with these thinly sliced red onions that were tossed with red wine vinegar, parsley, and sumac, giving them a fitting Middle Eastern tilt.
For the cheese, I was actually just going to pick up some provolone while shopping, then saw the grocery had kasseri in stock and opted for that instead. Kasseri is very much in the same family as a mild provolone with a lightly sharp flavor and a great melting quality, but the mixture of sheep and goat's milk adds a little funkiness that makes it feel more fitting for a shawarma-spiced cheesesteak over provolone.
My love of Korean barbecue has made me pretty adept at grilling this type of very thinly sliced meat on a Western-style grill where the larger spacing between the grates would seemingly be a hard obstacle to overcome. To keep the meat from falling to a fiery death and cook well without burning, it helps to keep the whole thing in a single meat mass that you flip pretty regularly while cooking. Doing this helps prevent slipping through the greats, gets some nice charring on edges here and there, but keeps most of the meat well cooked through and not scorched. One thing I hadn't considered with this marinade was the high oil content, which created pretty constant flare-ups, but it wasn't something I couldn't work through and come out of on the other side with well cooked beef.
I think my biggest challenge to making a great cheesesteak in North Carolina is getting the right bread. I really haven't found a bakery selling any type of good quality hero roles to the public (I know a few producing for restaurants), so my grocery store bread was the weakest link in my cheesesteaks. Because the quality of bread was not great, I gave the sliced rolls a little butter and time over the fire to enhance the flavor and texture, but I would have skipped this step if I just had the right cheesesteak rolls to start with.
With the bread nicely toasted, I assembled my cheesesteaks in open face fashion starting with a spread of the tahini mayo on each side of the roll followed by a pile of the spiced steak, red onions, and cheese.
I then put the sandwiches on the grill, over indirect heat, covered, and waited until the cheese melted. Since kasseri melts well, it only took a few minutes for the entire mass cheese to be sufficiently gooey, at which point I used my tongs to fold the cheesesteaks closed and removed them from the grill.
On my first bite of this cheesesteak, I was taken a bit aback by how juicy the steak itself was. I thought because it was not made on a griddle and cooked over very high heat that it might be on the drier side, but it actually oozed juice like a great cheesesteak does. While that may have a shared a trait with a traditional cheesesteak, the overall flavor did not, with that beef having an earthy and lightly spicy flavor that was more heavy handed than shawarma usually is. I did not really consider that aspect when crafting the recipe, and while it gave the cheesesteak a ton of personality, it also rendered the steak very salty, so I cut back the salt in the final recipe to hopefully avoid that pitfall for you. The onions added a light sharpness to the party, but not much crunch, although between the meat and creamy cheese, the impact of the onions was minimized to a cameo appearance. I did appreciate the mayo, mostly for bringing that toasty sesame flavor that was a fitting addition and rounded out the experience in my mind. Take all this together and you're pretty far from a Philly cheesesteak, even if the footings are there, but what's built on top is something completely different and incredibly tasty in its own right.